⊛ learn · lesson 13
molecules you already know
ambroxan, iso e super, calone, hedione
some notes are one molecule.
besides flowers, woods and resins, perfumers work with single molecules, many of them made in a lab. a few turn up everywhere, from fine perfume to shampoo and laundry products.


meet five of them.
tap a molecule.
ambergris, without the whale.
ambergris forms in the gut of the sperm whale. ambroxan gives its smell from a lab: one maker calls it the best material for a true ambergris note, and the most widely used ambery molecule.


the woody ambers.
a perfume magazine counts ambroxan and iso e super among the early woody ambers: lab-made molecules that work in tiny doses and linger on skin and fabric for a long time. detergents, softeners and deodorants use them a lot too. and some people can only partly smell them.

sources
- Givaudan · press release on Ambrofix, 2019
- Nez · woody ambers, the nasal invaders
- Givaudan · Ambrofix
- Now Smell This · perfume glossary
- dsm-firmenich · Calone
- ScenTree · Calone
- Nez · salty notes, sea spray and tastebuds
- University of Bristol · molecule of the month, hedione
- dsm-firmenich · Hedione
- Natural History Museum · what is ambergris?