⊛ learn · lesson 9
how a perfume is made
from the flower to the bottle
first, get the smell out.
the scent of a flower, a peel or a resin has to be taken out before a perfumer can use it. there are several ways, and each suits different materials.



six ways to do it.
tap one.
concrete, then absolute.
a concrete is usually not the end. it is washed with alcohol, chilled so the wax falls out, and filtered. once the alcohol is taken away, what is left is a fragrant liquid: the absolute.

why so many flowers.
one kilo of rose oil takes tonnes of flowers. sources give different numbers, so we won't pick one, but they all land in the tonnes.

the perfumer's organ.
the bottles a perfumer works from sit together on one stand, called an organ. the music image is old: a perfume book from 1857 already spoke of an octave of smells.
from formula to bottle.
tap each step.
sources
- FAO · Coppen, Flavours and fragrances of plant origin, 1995
- ISO 9235:2021 · aromatic natural raw materials, vocabulary
- Baser et al. · Perfumer & Flavorist 28(2), 2003
- Erbaş & Baydar · Records of Natural Products 10(5), 2016
- Park et al. · Food Science & Nutrition 2023
- Melliou et al. · Molecules 2009
- Navarra et al. · Frontiers in Pharmacology 2015
- Piesse · The Art of Perfumery, 1857
- Askinson · Perfumes and Their Preparation, 1892
- Fragonard · the historic factory
- PROSEA Handbook 19 · Jasminum grandiflorum
- Baranauskienė & Venskutonis · Molecules 2022
- Wu et al. · Evidence-Based Complementary and Alternative Medicine 2021
- Capuzzo et al. · Molecules 2013
- Noh et al. · Journal of Experimental Botany 2024
- US patent 3,759,806 · making perfume
- P&G · patent WO2016182828A1